“Nurturing Your Garden: A Guide to Cultivating 5 Distinct Mock Orange Species”

mock orange shrub

The mock orange is a deciduous shrub with a dense, rounded growth habit that can grow about 2 feet per year. It has dark green, serrated leaves and cup-shaped flowers with four petals during late spring and early summer. The fragrance of these flowers resembles that of orange blossoms, which gives the plant its common name. The nectar of mock orange flowers attracts pollinators like butterflies. The shrub is best planted in early fall but can also be planted in spring. Here are five mock orange varieties that differ in size and climate tolerance but share the attractive floral appeal of all mock oranges.

– ‘Aurea’: This variety is more compact than the main species, with golden foliage in the spring and reaching about 5 to 6 feet tall and wide.
– ‘Blizzard’: Particularly tolerant to cold weather, this variety only grows around 5 feet high by 3 feet wide.
– ‘Miniature Snowflake’: This variety produces fragrant double flowers, reaching about 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide.
– ‘Snowbelle’: This variety also produces fragrant double flowers but only grows to about 4 feet tall and wide.
– ‘Variegatus’: This shrub has white and green variegated foliage, reaching a maximum height of 6 feet.

When purchasing a mock orange, it’s best to smell the flowers before buying as not all varieties are equally fragrant. The shrubs require good drainage and should be fertilized and pruned annually. Mock orange shrubs don’t have much to offer during other times of the year but can be planted in groups to form a privacy hedge for summer, and their blossoms are often used as cut flowers.

mock orange shrub closeup

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mock orange shrub

mock orange shrub

These bushes can thrive in both full sun and partial shade, as long as they receive at least four hours of direct sunlight daily. Mock orange shrubs tend to produce more flowers in full sun. They prefer organically rich soil with good drainage, and can tolerate various soil types, including sandy, clay, and loamy soils, as long as the pH level is acidic to neutral. It’s important to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, especially for young shrubs, and to water mature shrubs during drought periods. These plants are hardy in cold weather and don’t require winter protection, but they appreciate extra hydration and shelter from harsh afternoon sun in extreme heat.

When planting mock orange shrubs, it’s best to mix compost, bark humus, or manure into the soil. Annual feedings should consist of a layer of compost around the shrub in late spring, but avoid using nitrogen-rich fertilizers, which can hinder blossom growth. To ensure blooming for the following year, it’s essential to prune the shrubs immediately after flowering. Remove dead, damaged, or poorly shaped branches and cut off growth above outer-facing buds on stems that have just finished flowering. If the shrub becomes overgrown, it’s recommended to cut the oldest one-third of the branches down to ground level annually. For severely overgrown shrubs, pruning all branches to the ground in the spring will result in new, healthy branches growing from the base.

Instead of purchasing a nursery plant, cuttings in the summer season are an excellent and cost-effective way to propagate mock orange shrubs. Fill a small pot with fast-draining seed-starting mix, cut a 5-inch branch below a leaf node using sterile pruning shears, remove the leaves from the lower portion of the cutting, apply rooting hormone to the cut end, bury it in the growing medium, ensure the soil is lightly moist, and keep the pot in bright, indirect light until roots form.

The four-petal white flowers of mock orange shrubs bloom in May and June in clusters of five to seven with a sweet scent. Adequate sunlight is crucial for blooming, and pruning out one-third of a mature shrub’s oldest branches encourages new and more vigorous stems to grow, resulting in more flowers. Deadheading isn’t necessary.

Mock orange shrubs don’t have many problems in proper growing conditions. Improper pruning is a common reason for poor flowering, and overwatering can cause yellowing foliage. Lawn fertilizers nearby may contain too much nitrogen, necessitating a soil test to determine if the soil has excess nitrogen.

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